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Delta 1010 Repair

delta1010-tI love my Delta 1010. It has given me several years of reliable service. One morning several years ago, I noticed the the VU meter on my Alesis 12R was staying partially lit. Turns out that all of the outputs on the Delta 1010 had noise in them and the audio that did come out was distorted. I thought it might be the end of the road for my 1010, but after a little looking I found that there had been problems with the capacitors on some models. I cracked the case on mine and much to my relief, I spied that one of the caps in the power supply line had swelled and was leaking some electrolyte. How can that be relief? It meant that the problem was probably right there and should be quite easy to fix.

I ordered some new caps from Digikey. I actually ordered equivalent voltage and capacitance replacements for all of the large electrolytics, but it turns out that the new caps are larger and wouldn’t fit in some spots, but I replaced the caps that had leaked and four others where the new caps would fit. I haven’t had any trouble out of it since. If you decide to do this, you might want to go with the compact models if they are available.

Cracking the case on your Delta 1010 will void the warranty. Chances are it has already run out, though. This repair is done at your own risk – I can not take any responsibility for any damages incurred. I’m just trying to guide folks through the process. If you can’t solder small stuff or don’t know a capacitor from a hole in the ground, don’t do this repair.


There are 3 case screws on the cover of the case in the rear, 1 in the front, and 2 on each side. Some are #1 Philips, some are #2. Use the right screwdriver. You should be able to pop the top right off. If you can’t, you may have missed a screw.

Vent Backer Plate:


There are 4 screws in the plate, all #2 if I remember correctly. It should come right out.

Input Board:

inboard_screwsThe input board has to come out to get the main board out. It is held in by 3 #2 screws and 2 standoffs. After taking the screws and standoffs out, you should be able to gently pull up on the lower edge of the board (as shown in the picture) where it connects to the main board. Although they’re pretty robust, be careful not to bend the pins.

Main board:

mainboard_screwsThe main board is loaded with fasteners. There are 7 standoffs and 3 screws. One screw and one standoff are through the tabs of voltage regulators on the left side. You should be able to see a nut on a stud on one of the tabs – you don’t need to take it off – it just holds the tab to the board. There is also a nut on each of the BNC connectors and a pair of tiny standoff-type things on the DB-25 connector that need to come off. If you didn’t do it earlier, go ahead and take the face off of the unit and slide the main board out toward the front.

The Problems:


You’re on your own from here. It is just a matter of desoldering the old caps and soldering in the new ones. Make sure you get the polarity right! The caps with the fingers are the ones I ended up replacing. The values are clearly printed on the old caps, just match up the new ones. This would also be a great time to replace the boorish yellow LEDs with some clear blue, white, green, red, or violet ones. I personally used deep-violet near-UV LEDs for the power and MIDI-OUT and a bright red for MIDI-IN.

Reassembly is the reverse of the disassembly. You knew that.

If you need any help or have any questions or additions, let me know!

28 Comments to

“Delta 1010 Repair”

  1. On April 14th, 2009 at 2:22 pm Alex Says:

    My 1010 decided to stop working over the weekend. It still gets warm, but the power light doesn’t light up. I noticed the same caps bulging when I took it apart last night. Do you have part numbers for the 6 you replaced in the last picture? Thanks!

  2. On April 14th, 2009 at 6:27 pm bryan Says:

    Sounds like you’re having the same issue that I did. You’d probably do well to replace all of the capacitors in the power supply. I wound up eventually replacing all in mine.

    It has been quite a while since I made the repair, so I don’t have the part numbers and I don’t remember what size the capacitors are. If you can tell me the capacity and voltage on them, I would be happy to look up the Digi-Key item numbers.

  3. On June 23rd, 2009 at 8:57 pm Scott Says:

    Just replaced My bulging Cap (2nd hand clockwise from left in last photo) and my 1010 is working again! This tutorial saved me an enormous amount of money(0.51/ per peice on ebay, as opposed to a 100 dollar bill from the local music shop) and I learned a bit too. Thanks. I’d love to pick your brain on more audio electronics if your willing.

  4. On July 13th, 2009 at 11:31 am bryan Says:

    Feel free to pick my brain. I may or may not be of help, but I’ll try.

  5. On August 5th, 2009 at 5:36 pm Mark Says:

    I would suggest before opening your unit that you call M-Audio’s service center. The Delta 1010s have lifetime warranty. I have had mine for 10 years now, and it died a full 6 years ago. It has been dead from then up until I sent it in a couple of weeks ago and got it back fixed yesterday. It cost about $18 to ship to them and that was it. Customer service was as friendly as they could be. The problem was the same – bad capacitors (they use new ones now, and will replace ALL of the old capacitors with new ones).

    Now all I need to do is find my old DB25 breakout cable and the power supply…

  6. On August 5th, 2009 at 10:53 pm bryan Says:

    Thanks for the heads-up. I wasn’t aware that M-Audio had a lifetime warranty on the 1010s.

    If memory serves, I bought my unit as B-Stock so I don’t know if it carried a manufacturers warranty. I suppose I could have contacted customer support, but repairing it myself seemed like more fun at the time and I haven’t had any trouble out of it since.

  7. On April 25th, 2010 at 7:40 am Alex Says:

    Thank you very much for this article! The tutorial saved me a lot of money. I’m using 2 Deltas 1010 and one of them suddenly had the issue described. It’s now working fine again! 😀

  8. On June 21st, 2010 at 10:01 pm Scott Says:

    After about 6 months the delta 1010 caved on me again. this time it was the psu… I got a replacement ( APS AD-740U-1090, 9vAC 3.5A) but to my dismay the 1010 is not awakening! Assuming the power supply is ok( had to splice a new end on, but as it’s AC, it should be a no brainer), what could be the cause? could there be another cap fried on the board? or should i just put this old workhorse to pasture?

  9. On July 29th, 2010 at 10:45 am Michat Says:

    Hi there,

    same problem here with my Delta 1010.
    But none of these caps are bulged! I looked at it thrice!
    The 1010 makes this “Click” sound when starting the computer, but the Power LED is off and the sound is some kind of rectified and very quite.
    Could it be the caps although they are not bulged?

  10. On August 3rd, 2010 at 8:39 pm bryan Says:

    Hard to say – it could be a capacitor issue – not all bad capacitors that are bad will look bad. It could also be the regulators or the relay that turns the unit on when supplied with power from the PCI card. I’ve heard that M-Audio will take care of these units for life so you might want to check into that.

  11. On August 3rd, 2010 at 8:49 pm bryan Says:

    Could be the caps but my experience is that bad caps result in noise. More likely, it could be that one of the power supply rails has died. The AC input from the line lump goes through some diode and capacitor magic to create positive and negative supplies for the op-amps as well as a digital supply for the digital bits. One of these – I don’t know which offhand – supplies the LED. If you’re getting “half” of the sound, it sounds like the rail that supplies the LED and the op-amps has died.

  12. On August 7th, 2010 at 7:51 am Kapotte Delta's - forum Says:

    […] (44 & 1010) convertors, die ik zelf een aantal jaar geleden tweedehands kocht. Nu las ik hier: The Project Blog Blog Archive Delta 1010 Repair dat het probleem in bepaalde gevallen zelf te herstellen is. Dat is, tenminste, als je op dat […]

  13. On December 2nd, 2010 at 7:39 am Col Says:

    Mate, you are a legend. Nuff Respect.

    Was about to bin mine too. Replaced 2 x 470uf 63v (+105) Capacitors and voila.

    One fully working 1010.

    Nice 1 Geezer !

  14. On July 9th, 2011 at 3:42 pm Fretless Says:

    Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!! I just fixed two inside of two hours and they work perfectly!!!

  15. On November 25th, 2011 at 12:21 pm DonGeo Says:

    Thank you so much for this guide! Could you please explain how to figure out which capacitors to order from DigiKey or post a list? I can find someone to help me solder the parts but I need to know which parts to order.

    Thank you!


  16. On January 7th, 2014 at 8:31 pm Mark (Rymix) Says:

    Regarding my comment above that the Delta 1010 has limited lifetime warranty… well, that is no longer true. As of July 2012 when Avid (who bought M-Audio a few years earlier) sold off its M-Audio products to inMusic, the Delta products were not included and were discontinued. They no longer honor the warranty as Avid had.

    Having said that, I will now be attempting the repair as listed here sometime during the next couple of weeks. 🙂

  17. On February 26th, 2014 at 5:27 am marco Says:

    awesome tutorial. very helpful
    anyone ever had to change the switches on the back? +4/-10Db att.
    mine are to say the least dodgy. bought it secondhand and i noticed that wiggling the switches makes sound better or worse.

    anyone an idea on which replacement part numbers?

    thanks in advance

  18. On February 26th, 2014 at 11:44 am bryan Says:

    I’ve had similar trouble and suspected the switches or jacks but never tracked it down for sure. I haven’t used it much recently so haven’t put much effort into troubleshooting.

    You might try shooting some contact cleaner into the switches and operating them a few times, but I suspect that would be only a temporary fix.

  19. On March 7th, 2014 at 12:03 am Real Soon Says:

    Thanks for this, it helps me feel a lot better about going ahead and cracking mine open! It turns out mine is a later revision, with higher-voltage capacitors already installed…but my 470uf 63V caps are vented and I had no LED, VERY low output level, and a ton of hum in the signal. After testing my PSU, everything pointed to bad power caps and that’s what it looks to be.

    I understand I can replace them with higher-voltage ones as long as the u-farads and temperature tolerances are the same, so I have a pair of 100V ones coming. And as for the other four…they all look fine, but while I’ve got the thing opened up, might as well replace them too, no?

    IMHO, the Delta 1010s are much too fine a line of interfaces to fall out of use, even with weak stock capacitors, and I’m glad to find out I’m not the only person who feels that way.

  20. On March 23rd, 2014 at 5:17 am Raul Black Says:

    My early model Delta 1010 started making a ground loop-like noise for a few minutes after booting my computer and then the noise would go away. A few months later, the noise stayed on permanently. I could see this in the control panel as signal coming into all inputs, despite having no audio inputs plugged into the breakout box.

    I figured it was probably PS caps, so I did a search and found this website, which confirmed my suspicions.

    I ripped into the unit and found 4 bulging caps, 2 of which were leaking. I broke out the Hakko 808 and desoldered all 10 PS caps and replaced them with Panasonic FM caps of the same values.

    2 – 470uf 35v
    4 – 470uf 16v
    2 – 2200uf 16v
    2 – 2200uf 35v

    These caps get hot. I could see heat-induced discoloration on the circuit board near the caps. I suspect it would be beneficial to up the 35v caps to 50v and the 16v caps to 25v. However, I’m not sure if even slightly higher-voltage caps would fit well. The Panasonics were a tight squeeze.

    At any rate, this repair will most likely last far longer than drivers will be available.

  21. On March 25th, 2014 at 11:49 am bryan Says:

    As the caps start to age, I suspect they may get electrically leaky and behave more like resistors than capacitors which has lead to your scorched board. Well-behaving capacitors should not get that hot; electrolyte starts cooking out if they do. Replacing them with capacitors with working voltages way higher is probably a waste, but I can’t prove that.

  22. On September 24th, 2014 at 4:58 pm marco Says:

    update: i’m curently working on my delta 1010 box again.
    ordered some capasitors (all of them) for the power supply side.
    thats not hard to fix anyways.

    tricky part was the removal of all the input switches. used a heatgun at 300 degrees celsius. wickle it ad pull.

    still working on the boards but i have all the parts that i want to replace.
    If any of you need to replace the switches aswell. this is a very good replacement.

    ALPS SPUN191400 (google it)


    happy soldering

  23. On October 20th, 2014 at 10:27 am marco Says:

    started changing the switches on my 1010.
    so far so good but what a freakin job.
    here you can see progress

    heres the data sheet of the switches


  24. On February 25th, 2015 at 9:05 pm Darrel Says:

    I have four breakout boxes, all have noise in the switches.
    Thanks for the tips

  25. On June 19th, 2015 at 10:01 pm Grant Says:

    Thanks very much for this, it saved my ass after getting ripped off on ebay, and now I have a nicer system than I bargained for!

    Do you know if the vent backing plate serves any purpose? It seems there just for aesthetics, or is it a heat spreader for the vents? Seems weird the vents aren’t directly above the caps, particularly the 63V ones which get super hot. I’m considering drilling some vents there myself…

  26. On June 20th, 2015 at 9:16 am grant Says:

    Hi there and sorry if this is a duplicate comment. I really appreciate this guide, it saved my ass!

    One question for you: Is the vent backer plate some kind of heat spreader or is it just for aesthetics, to block the view of the circuit through the vent holes? One thing that surprises me is that there are no vents above the hottest caps (the 63V ones). I’m considering removing the backer plate and drilling some holes above the cap group… what do you think?

  27. On June 20th, 2015 at 9:29 am grant Says:

    Also in case it’s useful to someone else, here are the best Panasonic cap replacements I found, considering the size limits (I don’t think you could go above 31.5mm height). And be sure to leave some room on the leads to be able to push them aside.

    2 x 470uF 63 V, 667-EEU-FC1J471L
    2 x 2200uF 25V, 667-ECA-1EHG222
    2 x 2200uF 50V, 667-EEU-HD1H222
    4 x 470uF 35 V, 667-EEU-FM1V471

  28. On October 25th, 2017 at 12:27 pm BEN Says:


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